Eating with your hands and bringing water on your head!

IST or in-service training is going pretty well, learning lots about funding opportunities, project ideas, and other stuff to be a more efficient volunteer. I am having a great time with my friends. It’s an amazing group, plus enjoying the air conditioning and running water! I have also had dinner with my host family a few times this week and it’s always great to spend time with them. They are amazed at how far along my languages have come, which is encouraging.

I just wanted to write a blog entry about day-to-day life in Benin. A friend from the US asked me if I took my clothes to the Laundromat…so I figured I left out a few things. I get up around 7AM every morning because everyone is up cleaning, cooking, etc…aka making noise. I greet my family and sit around for a while, and then I sweep my house and usually dust off cobwebs and wipe down my tables, it gets super dirty here fast. After a while I get ready for work and shortly head off on my bike. My neighbors don’t have electricity and no one in my village has water except for the nuns. I eat bouille aka porridge at work with some peanuts for breakfast most mornings, sometimes with fruit too. The work schedule is going to change though because as of now I am spending too much time in my office and would rather work on project planning and finding other organizations to collaborate with. I return home in the early afternoon. Sometimes I stop and hang out with people that live along the road to integrate into the community better and practice local language. When I get home I sweep again, read, study French, teach English, French tutoring, practice Fon (local language) with Maman, among other things. I go on walks, hang out at the market, help prepare dinner, listen to the radio. I could go on, but I think that is enough examples.

Laundry and water. Water comes to me on a child’s head and then goes into a large basin. I use that water to cook, bathe, drink, and do laundry. The kids help me with my laundry because I am not allowed to do it myself since my fingers bleed, what a whimp! It takes about an hour to do my laundry for the week we use three large basins and everything gets scrubbed and cleaned twice, then rinsed and put on the line to dry. I wash all my undergarments in the back of my house because it’s taboo to have them on the line. I do the dishes using two bins on with soapy water and one with regular water, hand wash everything and then leave it on the table to dry. And we have latrines; it’s basically like a port-a-potty. If you want more details feel free to email me, haha!

The Beninese have a very high amount of carbohydrates in their diet. Pote (not spelled properly) is sort of their version of mashed potatoes; it’s made with cornflower and water. There are three different types, pote rouge, pote blanche, and pote noir. A moderation on that is akassa, it is fermented pote (not my favorite). I think I have decided I don’t like fermented food in general… Then each is served with a sauce and sometimes a protein (fish, cheese, soy, beef, chicken, eggs). In the southern part of the country where I am there are more choices, in the north it is very different. Most people can afford fruit, which varies based on the season (bananas, mangos, oranges, guavas, pineapple, avocados). In the north there is igname pilee which is awesome and tons of cheese! Two or three women hand mash the yams with these big mallets into these tall wooden basin things. This is served with a peanut sauce and a protein…delicious! It’s easy to buy bread and people have cous cous, pasta, and/or rice for meals as well.

The sauces: basic red sauce (tomatoes, piment (spicy peppers), onions) , sauce legume (greens, tomatoes, onions, piment), ginger red sauce, peanut sauce, and there are other variations. There are many types of means as well. Beans are served with rice or gari (like the leftovers after they take the corn to the mill…I think), it’s really good though! You can get vegetables in the cities and there are supermarkets with “white” people food too. You use milk powder if you want milk, some villagers have their own animals for meat consumption, and many have private gardens as well. People use lots of oil and lots of salt when they cook. There is a variety of street food available at all times. Tons of fried stuffà fried balls of dough, fried bananas, fried yams, fried manioc (another carb, similar to a potato), etc. Cooking happens over wood or coal fires and in the cities some people have gas. I eat most meals with the family in my concession and cook once in a while for them and myself. I have made macaroni and cheese, spaghetti, cakes, and banana bread for example. It’s hard to cook for Beninese because they are very picky so I am cautious about what I cook. I could go on and on. Again questions, just ask.

Transportation throughout the country is really fun (sarcasm—except I really do like the motos)! There are hardly any paved roads, so travel time depends on whether or not it is the dry or rainy season. For short travel distances people travel by moto. They are motorcycles and you have a driver, you have to discuss the price or haggle. Oh yes you have to haggle prices pretty much all the time, not my favorite thing to do. Then you take bush taxis, 16-20 passenger buses or the large commuter buses for longer distances. A bush taxi—there are 7 place taxis and 9 and up place taxis. Compared to the US a compact 4 door car is normally a 7 place. There is the driver two people share the front seat and 4 people are crammed in the back. There are not really enforced driving rules, it can be kind of scary, and I’m surprised there are not more accidents. Animals, food and other baggage are tied to the top, put in the back, tied to motos, carried by hand on moto, among other ways. Travel can be slow and frustrating, unless you have one of those white, big, 4 wheel drive SUVs. For example my post is about 15 miles to Cotonou the commercial capital and most days it takes about an 1.5 hours and it has taken up to 3 hours before…crazy huh?!

There’s a bit more detailed information about my life in Benin…I hope you enjoyed it. I also hope the holiday season is going well for everyone and wish you the best! Talk to you soon. Hugs and kisses!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!

Happy Belated Thanksgiving!

I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving!!! I didn’t do much on the actual day, had dinner with my post mate, vegetable and tofu stirfry and a tomato and cucumber salad, it was quite delicious. But today 15 other volunteers and I are getting together and having a potluck style Thanksgiving lunch, which I am really excited about. Today I am also going to teach English at an ONG for refugees of other Sub-Saharan African countries, I’m a little nervous, but hey I would say I know English pretty well, haha!

The past month has really flown by. I had a good post visit with my APCD, but nothing really exceptional to report. I helped with two eye screenings one here in Zinvie and the other in Houegbo where a married couple is posted and a friend from my training class, Satin, is also nearby. Her village is gorgeous! I am taking anyone that comes to visit to see it, it was breathtaking. I think she is at one of the most rural posts in Benin. We tested over 300 children between the two screenings, so I would say it was a success. The next thing is working with an eye doctor in Cotonou and a really neat organization called Mercy Ships to get them a professional screening and glasses. Mercy Ships is basically a hospital on a boat that ports at developing countries for around 10-12 months and performs a variety of medical treatment from dental care to orthopedic surgery. They will be in Benin starting next March I think and I am planning on sending an email to see if I can volunteer for a week or so.

Last weekend there were a couple of days of voodoo festivals in my village. I went with my family to watch and it was amazing. The costumes were gorgeous and the music and dancing were spectacular, I had such a great time. I am sad because one of the big Muslim celebrations will be when I am in Porto Novo for my in-service training so I will miss it. 2 weeks of training—Dec. 7^th to Dec. 21^st—that’s a long time! On the plus side I get to see all the other Health and Environment volunteers, my host family, and stay in a hotel. We are staying at the Songhai Center which is a really interesting self-sustaining agricultural thing. I don’t know that much about it at this point, but I’m sure I will by the end of two weeks.

All my love and Happy Holidays! Go Tarheel Basketball and Football!!!

Obama Won!

What a fantastic week! A bunch of other volunteers as well as some of the people that work in the office and I watched the election results until 7AM. During Obama's speech there was a lot of clapping and tears of happiness. I am still in awe of the results and I am so proud of my home state-- my absentee ballot probably counted! The entire country of Benin and continent of Africa is celebrating with the US right now. It is amazing and exciting how much support Obama has throughout the world. Have a nice weekend everyone!

Is there really a rat in my room?!

I completed my community study that is due at the IST in December. It was this assignment to help us get to know our communities. We had to ask people a variety of questions about things like culture, work, education, and income. There were over 100 questions so it took quite a bit of time. It was a little more cumbersome for me because I live and work in two different villages so I had to get information for both. I made a powerpoint too which is pretty sweet! There are some cool features in the office ‘07 software that I hadn’t played with yet. Yes I had quite a bit of time on my hands as you can imagine, so I went a little overboard with it, but whatever. The IST is in Parakou from I think the 8^th or 9^th of December to about the 19^th. I am excited about it because all of the Health and Environment volunteers will be together. Those two groups were together for our training in Porto Novo so many of my good friends are either Health or Environment volunteers. I can’t wait to see everyone and hear how people are doing. The only downside is how far away Parakou is…it is in the Northern part of Benin so for me it will be a really long trip. I will take a big bus though, not a bush taxi. I can barely stand being in a bush taxi for the short journey to Cotonou, I am such a baby…haha! Anyway it will be nice to see a different part of Benin.

Village is great and so is work. I finally splurged on a fan, it was necessary. It’s in the 90s everyday, at least, and after I get off my bike I think I continue to sweat for almost an hour. My director and I had a nice talk last week about our goals; mine and hers. Thursday mornings we do immunizations and baby weighing. And at the beginning of next year I am going to begin doing 15 minute formations too. I already have 21 different health topics written up in French—again—lots of time when you stay home sick, haha! Then we are going to start working on a calendar to do larger formations in the surrounding villages, there are 11 total and that’s not including the ones on the water. The president of my clinic and a couple of the girls I work with live there so they really want me to go there too. Also I am going to keep researching and probably write a grant to start a Moringa project. Moringa is a plant that grows very easily here—for all of you wondering how I am going to grow something, lol!…it has great nutritional properties and is good for recuperation too. My director and I want to get that going and sell it as powder in the pharmacy. We also spoke about doing some cooking demonstrations. I’m sure I am leaving some things out, but that’s a lot. Oh I also want to talk to the director of the CEG (middle/high school equivalent) about teaching a computer class once a week. They have computers, but are not using them…just one of my ideas for a secondary project.

Things at my house and with my concession are going well. I have been running a bit and been back and forth sick, but nothing too serious. I made my neighbors banana bread and cornbread, good stuff! I have made the banana bread a bunch of times now, it’s delicious. There are more kids here now for school, 5 young ones—4-15 in age. They keep me company so I don’t have to buy a dog or cat, haha. Oh and they help me with pretty much everything, in exchange they get to play with my ipod and stuff. We play around all the time and help each other with the many languages we are all trying to learn; they are so much fun! They are also really good at killing all the animals I find in my house too, like spiders, lizards, the other night a rat, yes a rat! I freaked out, the whole family came out because I yelled so loud, then I ran out of the house and across the yard while they caught it and killed it. And I have been getting teased ever since…haha!

I am in Cotonou right now for a meeting to review my training group. I was chosen to represent health because I am so close to the bureau. I don’t mind I am happy to be here on Election Day…constant access to the internet! I bet it’s crazy in the US right now. Plus I received my first packages and some mail!!! Thanks mom! Hope everyone had a Happy Halloween—I bought myself a bit of candy and explained the holiday, I’m not sure they got it, but oh well it’s the effort that counts anyway. I hope all is well and GO OBAMA!